Sunday, August 30, 2009

...ultima dia de verano..

summer is no more. come and gone. a memory to be saved. catalogued.
as we move into school mode. we have to be more mindful of responsibilities.ive been out of school for 2 years.
tomorrow marks my first day as a real college student. gotta focus. stay driven.

its going to be hard, with newport firing every morning fight down my road. i feel like im in for trouble as these fall swells start rolling in...

gonna be coming at newport lineups hard. fast. strong. haha

wave been really fun a-frames as of late...clean conditions early..plenty of little fast barrels. good to start your day shacked.

ive been trying to look at waves differently..approach them with no set mind. just flow with it as it fills in on the sandbar.let my subconscious do the surfing..whatever feels right. nothing planned before dropping in..all spontaneous waveriding.

cant wait to get my longboard from hankwarner..hes been shaping me a new log...should be sickkkkk
should look like this paintjob..i dig it----->


a video/song to leave yall dreamingg.

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